The heart on the right of the photo above was done with a running stitch. It is a simple up and down stitch that can be long or short in length. Further Reading - How to do Running Stitch. Blanket stitch was used on the heart on the left. The advantage of this stitch is that it seals the edge with a line of thread which can reduce fraying. Further Reading - How to do Blanket Stitch. I used a backstitch for the dog applique.
Because it had so many points and curves, it would have been impossible to use the blanket stitch. Running stitch would have worked on it as well as the backstitch. Backstitch results in a solid-looking stitch ling and is durable and attractive.
I used 3 strands of embroidery floss so the line would not be too chunky. Further Reading - How to Backstitch.
Reverse applique has the foreground fabric cut out and your colored applique fabric placed behind. It can add nice texture to thicker fabrics. When I see this effect on clothing in shops it tends to be done with a hand stitch.
In my reverse applique article, you will find a couple of more techniques including folding the inside edges and a quick method for stretch fabric. Felt is a wonderful fabric to applique as the edges do not fray. Washable craft and sewing felt is cheap to purchase and is one of my favorite things to sew on children's clothing.
The little red riding hood in the photo above comes with the Masie cape pattern and can be done with a machine straight stitch.
The pincushion is from my free pincushion pattern and the applique can be done with running stitch or whip stitches. Further Reading - Sewing Felt. Sewing felt by hand is much like sewing fabric applique and many of the same stitches can be used. Unless you like the look of it, there is no need to do a blanket stitch that seals the edges since felt does not fray.
I love applique with vinyl and leather. It adds a unique style to clutches and purses and is easy to sew on your regular machine with a few modifications. Also, one way to avoid fraying is to use a zig zag stitch rather than a straight stitch. Actually the frayed look is very popular right now. I like to use a zig zag stitch on the edges to allow a tad bit of fray, and to give my pieces character, especially for little boys. It still holds up very well.
The satin stitch is a more traditional look, and while it is very beautiful, sometimes a straight or zig zag looks better. What do you do? Thank you for posting this. But this tutorial seems like I just might be able to do it!
Hi there! I know this is kind of off-topic however I needed to ask. Does running a well-established website like yours take a large amount of work? Please let me know if you have any kind of suggestions or tips for new aspiring bloggers. Hi Amy! Just found this tutorial and I love it, thanks! I also happen to like a little bit of fraying after a few washes!! I have a question and I hope you read this and can help!
What do you do with the threads after you are done? Just wondering if you have any tips or do it another way? When you visit any web site, it may store or retrieve information on your browser, mostly in the form of cookies. This information might be about you, your preferences or your device and is mostly used to make the site work as you expect it to.
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And this diagram can also help! Apart from blanket stitch, you can also use a straight stitch, or tight zig zag satin stitch on your sewing machine. But for blanket stitch, I feel like a stabiliser can be more of a hindrance than a help. I like the freedom of stitching without it.
You can manoeuvre your fabric more easily and get a neat finish. There are lots of patterns you can purchase or you can use free designs like the deer I have included here. Save the file and print it to a size that suits your project. Using a pen, trace the template onto the paper side of your fusible web. Roughly cut around your traced piece of fusible web ensuring you leave a small border.
Do not cut on the drawn outline. Take some time to decide on the fabric you will use, and where you will position your fusible web. Take note of fabric that has a directional print or pattern. Also, try and always work with the fabric grain so that the threads in the fabric the warp and weft run vertical and horizontal across the template and not diagonally. Once you are happy with your fabric selection and placement, heat your iron to a hot non-steam setting.
Place the fusible web piece onto the wrong side the back of your chosen fabric so that your template on the paper side is facing you and webbing is between the paper and the fabric. Fuse the paper to the fabric by running the hot iron over it for a few seconds. If you are using fabric blends or materials like felt, be sure to protect it by using a press cloth or scrap of cotton fabric over the design. Peel the backing paper off. If using a template with more than one piece, position the pieces neatly on your garment or project fabric so it all fits together nicely.
Press down gently with the iron instead of rubbing from side to side. You can also use a satin stitch which is a tight zig-zag stitch , or a straight stitch on the sewing machine.
Choose a stitch you are comfortable with. However, I find that a blanket stitch protects the raw edges of the fabric and gives the neatest finish. In a design with a single piece of fabric, start stitching in an inconspicuous place in a bend, corner, or a place that may be covered with a button or bow embellishment later.
You will need to pivot the fabric as you navigate bends and turns. But be sure the needle is down when you do!
The top overlapped pieces are stitched last. Use different coloured sewing cotton or embroidery thread to match or compliment your chosen fabric if you wish.
If you are stitching by hand, use two strands of embroidery thread. This foot is clear, so you have a better view of your stitches. The slightly recessed bottom is the same as its Open Toe cousin. And, the bright red arrow at the front of the foot provides an excellent stitching guide as you twist and turn. The type of needle and thread you choose should be based on your fabric.
Traditionally this thread type is rayon, which means you will get a slightly shiny finish. A standard bobbin thread is usually best in combination with any upper thread you choose. This finer thread allows the upper thread to pull more completely to the underside.
When commenting, your name will display but your email will not. Such a good tutorial! To the point, no unnecessary rhetoric. Good examples with clear explanations. Keep up the good work! Thanks, Janet! We appreciate you taking the time to send such a lovely compliment.
How do I find a design? You can buy specific pressing cloths or make your own from a heavy-weight, light-color cotton. Needles and Thread The type of needle and thread you choose should be based on your fabric. To create a satin stitch , choose a zig zag , then alter your stitch length to a very low setting — until there is barely any space between the stitches. For more on this, read our article on Selecting Machine Stitch Length.
You will be stitching over the cut edge with a zig zag , but the web helps prevent any fraying, especially where the design gets very narrow. You can simply flip over your template, tracing it backwards so it will be going the correct direction when viewed from the front just like working with any paper pattern.
Cut out the fabric shape following the the drawn lines on the paper backing. Peel the paper backing from the fusible web. As mentioned above, start your tear in the middle and work out to the edges of the design.
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