If you have a smaller calf, you may want to either use smaller needles or less stitches. You will also want to cast on an even number of stitches. This makes it easier on you when doing the heel flap and the heel turn. Another thing to remember about the heel flap is its length. It must be long enough for you to pick up the correct number of stitches for the gusset. Well how do you figure this, you ask? Every row on the heel flap begins with a slip stitch.
On the knit row you will slip the first stitch and on the purl row you will slip the first stitch. So how do you figure the number of rows? So if you cast on 60 stitches, then the number of picked up stitches on each side must be 15 stitches each. Also keep in mind that the slipped stitches at the beginning of every row on your heel flap will cover two rows.
In order to have the correct number of slipped stitches on each side of your heel flap you will need to knit 30 rows. You do this by decreasing every other round. This makes the gusset area large enough to go over the largest part of the foot and then reduces it to accommodate the foot area. Now you have completed the heel flap, how do you figure the number of stitches to knit across before turning?
Divide the number by 3 in your head. You will notice that there is an equal number of unworked stitches on each end of the needle. You will continue working the stitches back and forth until you have worked all stitches. Okay, what about 32 stitches? How do you divide that evenly? This will make your unworked stitches even on each end. It is really annoying to have an extra stitch left over after you have worked all your stitches. After completing the heel turn, you will pick up your gusset stitches and continue as described above until you reach the toe area.
You will decrease at the end of one needle and the beginning of the next, twice you have 4 needles, remember every other round. So there will always be a round where you do not decrease in between your decrease rounds. You will continue until you have reached the desired number of stitches left. You should make sure your stitches are divided evenly onto 4 needles. If you cast on 64 stitches like me, that means there needs to be 16 stitches per needle.
A lot of people like to straight up put half of their stitches onto a single needle for working the heel flap. Personally, I like to knit a few rows of my heel flap on two needles just till the heel flap starts hanging separately from the tube of the sock ankle. At the end of the row, flip your work to the other side a.
A visual explanation of slipping as if to purl vs. You want it to be as strong as it can be! Knit your heel flap for 2. I shoot for about 2. CO 64 sts, join into a circle with DPNs and begin working a knit 1, purl 1 rib stitch all the way around.
I will add your trick for eliminating that pesky hole to my arsenal of tricks for that since there are quite a few out there, I tend to do the one that suits my mood when I get up to that part but yours sounds less fiddly than most. Team heel flap here. I can do it in my sleep. But I love reading about skills, I always seem to learn something new. I have to try your square flap. Question, why do you knit through the back loop on the first row of picked up stitches?
Am I understanding that correctly? Judy, you knit your picked up stitches tbl because doing that twists and, therefore, tightens those stitches making them look neater and eliminates the elongated stitches and there are no holes.
Love your tutorials, Kate! Why not put it where it will become the start of the top of the foot? That way it is the start of the top of the toe when you get there. Thank you! Heel flap and gusset with the Half Handkerchief heel turn which is magic was the first heel I learned to do from multiple sources and never knew what to call it. Thanks for the clear explanation of what I have been doing. Now, I can communicate what that is!
I cannot find a picture showing how to maneuver doing two sock gussets at a time on a magic loop. Thank you Kate! This article is a keeper. I find the denser stitching helps prevent wear in the heal. Seems like it could have been added here.
Based on the first two I knit, before internet from written words alone. So funny to me thst u waited so long to talk about this. No pesky holes and so nice and cushy. I wish that Kate would do the same amazing explanation for those of us who are sworn to toe up construction. I am top-down, heel-flap-and-gusset all the way! It makes me feel like a real knitter! I too knit the heel flap, top down sock. I never could get the toe-up version to fit correctly always too big every time.
And I just love the way a good gusset looks…so tidy. I have done the after-thought heel in the Smooth Operator Sock by Susan B Anderson, and I love the way it looks, especially with contrast yarn. It fits me just fine, but I hesitate to use it in socks I knit as gifts, so I default to the heel flap and gusset; no complaints from the recipiso far. This has been my go to heel and it is great as it is adjustable.
Love it with the slip one stitch pattern. Will you please write about different toe finishes for cuff down socks? Which marker is the second marker? Do I knit past one marker to the next one? Thanks for your patience — I only just found your comment. Exactly right — knit past the one marker, to the second one. I have a question about comfort. My feet are numb and over sensitive. What sock pattern would have less bumps and seams that might cause a bit less discomfort especially along the edge of my feet?
Any ideas you have would be so welcome! I want to knit my own socks that I will have for a long time. Thank you. Thanks for your patience, I only just found your question. I hope that helps! HI Kate can you possibly provide the name of a pattern that has the square heel incorporated in the pattern — I much prefer a cuff down please?
Finding that on all my socks I am wearing them out just under the heel and these would really help with this thanks so much. I really like these socks and plan to make them soon. I have a question though. How can reinforce the heel and toe? I have learned that not all sock patterns are created equal! Some sock patterns may have a lovely design for the leg section and then fall apart with the heel or toe directions.
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